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Thibaud Boudignon has gone through the three stages of small-producer cultdom. First, there were the tweets and instagram posts. Maybe a foreign blog or small magazine article. The allusions to his wine were rapturous, but enigmatic and mostly from overseas.

The 2018 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux is clear, deep, pure and flinty on the intense but fine and coolish-mineral nose.

This is stunning from the start, with a silky and refined feel despite the panoply of dried quince, fig, pear and apricot flavors that are exotic in nature. Lovely green tea, orange blossom and persimmon notes fill in the background.

Intense acidity cuts through the rich and plump profile of this sweet version, creating harmony and focus. Shows a wide range of flavors, with golden raisin, fig and flambéed pear notes on the palate, delivering incredible purity.